Most first-time travelers to Peru head straight for the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu, perhaps pausing in Lima for fresh ceviche, but rarely venture further. Yet beyond the well-trodden paths lies a ...
“We’ve reached the point of no return,” says my guide, Julio Llancay. It should sound ominous, but with that ever-present grin stretched across his face, it lands more like a punchline than a warning.
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